In January 2024, a delegation of twelve Boston College Ph.D. students, along with four faculty affiliated with the Clough Center for the Study of Constitutional Democracy, embarked on a week-long field visit to Mexico. This trip was an integral part of the Clough Center’s annual theme, “Attachment to Place in a World of Nations.” The visit aimed to examine the relationship between geography, political history, and cultural identity, with particular focus on the forces of globalization and the pressures faced by modern democracies. (See the full report in the link).
The trip took place in two locations, Cuernavaca and Mexico City, where students explored a variety of historical and contemporary issues. They engaged with Mexican academics, civil society members, and local leaders, discussing how Mexico’s unique political and cultural geography has shaped its identity and governance.
Cuernavaca: Walking Through History
The visit kicked off in Cuernavaca, where the group explored key historical landmarks that speak to Mexico’s colonial past and Indigenous heritage. The first stop was the Cuernavaca Cathedral, a site reflecting Mexico’s long and often fraught religious history. The cathedral, built during colonial times, is not only a symbol of the spread of Catholicism but also stands as a testament to the indigenous resistance and evolving spiritual identity. It later became an important site for liberation theology, where Bishop Sergio Mendez Arceo led efforts for human rights and social justice.
A walking tour of Cuernavaca’s Palace of Cortés further highlighted Mexico’s layered history of colonization. Built from the remains of an Aztec tribute center, the palace serves as a physical reminder of the violence of colonization. Inside, Diego Rivera’s murals visually represent the blending of Indigenous and Spanish cultures, illustrating how the complex identity of modern Mexico was born through colonial conflict and cultural integration.
The delegation also visited Xochicalco, an ancient pre-Columbian city that embodies the intricate relationship between politics, religion, and social hierarchy in Mesoamerican civilizations. The pyramids and architectural layout reflected the cosmic beliefs and rigid social structure of the era, providing insight into the central role that geography and cosmology played in shaping the political power of ancient Mexican civilizations.
Exploring Community and Globalization
One of the central themes explored during the visit was how modern Mexico grapples with the effects of globalization on traditional ways of life. A visit to a bustling local market in Cuernavaca provided a window into the informal economy, which plays a crucial role in supporting Mexico’s poorer populations. The students observed how the market was more than a place for economic exchange; it was a social hub where families, small-scale traders, and communities interacted. However, as the students learned from their guide, Professor Antonio Ortega, these markets are under threat. The rise of global retail giants like Walmart is pushing traditional markets to the brink of extinction. This mirrors broader global trends, as similar dynamics are at play in the United States and other nations.
Mexico City: The Political Heart of the Nation
After several days in Cuernavaca, the group traveled to Mexico City, where they visited Chapultepec Castle and the National Museum of Anthropology. Chapultepec Castle, once home to Emperor Maximilian I during the French intervention, now houses a museum that traces Mexico’s tumultuous political history. The National Museum of Anthropology provided a deeper understanding of the pre-Hispanic civilizations that inhabited Mexico. Artifacts from the Olmec, Maya, and Aztec cultures offered a lens into the country’s deep roots, reminding the students of the enduring influence these ancient cultures have on modern Mexican identity.
The visit to Mexico City also included a tour of the historic center, including the Metropolitan Cathedral and Templo Mayor, the latter being a site of great significance during the Aztec Empire. This part of the tour revealed the layers of human history in Mexico’s capital: from the Aztec religious heart to the Catholic conversion and the modern-day political protests that continue to shape the nation’s democratic character.
Indigenous Struggles and Land Rights
A critical component of the trip was the group’s engagement with Indigenous communities. In the Nahua lands, the delegation met Ignacio “Nacho” Torres Ramirez, an Indigenous leader who spoke about the challenges his people face in defending their land against government and corporate exploitation. The Nahua community, like many Indigenous groups in Mexico, views land as a communal resource that should be preserved for future generations. Nacho’s talk illustrated the broader struggle of Indigenous communities in Mexico, who are seeking greater autonomy and recognition from the Mexican state.
Centers of Power and Democracy
The group also gained insights into the workings of Mexico’s national government through a visit to the Senate. Here, they explored the physical and symbolic spaces of political power. The Senate’s modern building, adorned with national symbols, served as a reminder of Mexico’s political evolution and the ongoing challenges of maintaining democratic governance in a globalized world. A tour of the Camara de Senadores further demonstrated the complex relationship between history, place, and democracy, with the Senate chamber itself symbolizing the intersection of Mexico’s Indigenous past and its modern statehood.
A key moment of the trip was attending a morning press conference with President Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO). Known for his daily briefings, AMLO’s interaction with the media provided the students with a firsthand look at the relationship between political leadership and the press in Mexico’s democratic system. The students reflected on how Mexico’s political culture, much like its history, is shaped by an ongoing tension between local traditions and the pressures of global capitalism and governance.
Reflection: Attachment to Place
From Mexico’s ancient pyramids to its modern Senate chamber, the delegation encountered spaces that embodied both the resilience of local cultures and the complex interplay between history, geography, and democracy. They left Mexico with a deeper understanding of how attachment to place can influence national identity and democratic governance in an increasingly globalized world.
This trip underscored the importance of place in shaping both personal and collective identities. The Clough Center’s initiative continues to foster interdisciplinary reflection on how physical spaces and cultural geographies intersect with the ideals of democracy and constitutional governance.
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